Kampong Gelam is delightful in the extremist degree.

Notable landmarks, instagrammable cafes, and a constellation of A-star street art have all worked overtime to turn this indie enclave into a hipster powerhouse and put it on the map alongside some really mainstream heavyweights – so much so that it once earned itself an honorary (albeit somewhat misrepresented) mention on an episode of Criminal Minds: Beyond Borders (but that’s a story for another day)… and perhaps, such is the complexity of Kampong Gelam. Trying to understand it in one visit – much less in a writer’s room 10,000 miles away without ever having stepped foot here once – is like trying to understand the desert through one grain of sand. You think it’s a place to find Islamic-ethnic food, rugs, fabric and curio – but it’s a little more than that. You think it’s the place to get the best hipster eats, but it’s also a little more than that. You might even think it’s the place to go to, to discover more about the Malay people as a race – and you’re absolutely right – but, it is also a little more than that.

No matter what you think Kampong Gelam might be, chances are, it’s going to be a little more than that.

And how can it not be? After all, this is a place with more than two hundred years of history in the writing; a fact that surprises many (even the locals) who know the place only for its present-day energy. But there is a deeper reason why the Malays/Muslims gather here more than anywhere else in the island; why they call this ‘home’ – and it has something to do with the fact that, once upon a time, some two many long centuries ago, Kampon Gelam stood as the official seat to the Malay Royal Family of 1824 Singapore – all 600 members of them all.

Yes, Singapore once had her own Royal Family too. They were of Malay origin – the original dweller race of Singapore- and they gave her up to the British, in a somewhat less-than-optimal treaty which saw this 56-acre parcel of land being gifted to the Sultan in exchange for the entire island. Questionable trade decisions aside (this was way back in 1824 of course); this paved the way for Kampong Gelam to evolve into an epicentre for the Malays & Muslims of Singapore; and through the 1800s to the early 1900s, it continued to flourish as a Malay-Muslim quarter, successfully establishing itself as a landscape for the leaders in the Islamic world to trade and commerce. Interestingly, this is why you’ll see many of the streets here being named after prominent Islamic lands, from Kandahar to Bussorah, Muscat, Baghdad, and more. And no matter where you go, a flurry of Muslim-ethnic hustle & bustle slowly unfolds itself upon you; from Arabian incense & aromatic shoppes to halal food and fashion to Turkish rug & lamp galleries you previously thought you’d only ever get to see in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar… all of them, of course, neatly arranged in rows of shophouses that lead straight up to the neighbourhood’s pièce de résistance: the imposing Sultan Mosque, a historic national monument that, even though was “formally opened” only in 1929, first saw light of day in 1824 (and has gone through at least 4 restorations since).

But of course, still, Kampong Gelam is a little bit more than that.

These days, Kampong Gelam remains the kind of place that cannot decide if it wants to honour the past or shine in the present – and so in an ingenious, unconventional way that only it knows how, it does a little bit of both. Bistros and bazaars are often spoken of in the same breath, like some kind of Arabesque double act; and for every cheap curio stand you find vociferously hawking ten of the same keyrings to you for a nominal dollar, you will find a local artisan or an indie label, passionately pushing new-age values like ethical sourcing and environmental sustainability.

That said, if I had to put my finger on one thing that I imagine has not changed since now and two hundred years before, I would very well say it would be the collective spirit of the Malays-Muslims; a culture where community and togetherness form the very cornerstone of its fabric. Life is better lived together when it comes to the Malay people; and this tight-knit, shared sense of identity rings true of its people even today, where families are big and celebrations even bigger; everybody knows everybody; and occasions are actually just secret guises to bring everyone back together every now and then, to reinforce shared values, rebuild traditions, and reaffirm their overall sense of belonging.

Set the Scene

Kampong Glam In 5 Words:
Quirky, Cultural, Vibrant, Artsy, (Highly) Instagrammable

Best Time to Visit:
For a masterpiece experience, time your visit to coincide with the Islamic month of Ramadan, where the Muslims observe a month-long fast leading up to Eid. You will find one of the two most iconic Ramadan bazaars in Singapore right outside Sultan Gate, with an impressive line-up of more than 100 food stalls selling more than your mind can stomach. The food has increasingly shifted towards hipster territory in recent years, but you can still expect to find some good ol’ Ramadan favourites, like Briyani, Malay Kuih, Nasi Ambeng, Otah, Air Kathira, Vadai, Lekor, and plenty more.

Sleep Here: You cannot get a better sleep location than at Cube Boutique Capsule Hotel, situated slap bang in front of the Sultan Mosque. That said, it is a capsule hotel (it’s in its name) and space is tight; so if you’re hankering for the real boutique deal, The Sultan located just on the outskirts of the neighbourhood will please heritage hearts.

Else, the Little India precinct situated just a stone’s throw away is ever ready to offer up its full suite of boutique hotels, from mainstay classics like The Wanderlust and Daulat, to the Wes Anderson-inspired The Great Madras or even the highly experiential The Serangoon House.

ADVENTURE FORTH

Kampong Glam In 5 Experiences:
1. The historic Masjid Sultan (Sultan Mosque) is the beating heart of Kampong Gelam, with close to 200 years of history and a dizzying exchange of hands in between. It’s open 10am to 4pm daily – but closed between 12-2pm for afternoon prayers. Don’t leave without popping in for a peek. There are guided tours available, but you’re free to stroll on your own too (regular mosque attire rules apply).

2. An explosion of colours lie waiting in the back lanes of Muscat Street, otherwise known as: Gelam Gallery. It’s essentially a back alley museum, featuring some pretty distinctive wall murals from over 30 local & international artists as well as art students. And even as certain parts of these back alleys have really given way to nestling amidst its real life elements (you’ll understand when you get there), it largely remains still oh so very instagrammable – plus, it’s absolutely free (so why not?).

3. Enjoys a sense of trendy eclectism at Haji Lane with its poky laneways and cute little shopfronts. Explore a myriad thrift stores, indie & local labels, gift & tricket stores – plus a plethora of quirky bars and bistro haunts that one can typically expect (and not expect) to find in a historic locale overtaken by the hipster movement.

4. Make sure you also save some time to Cafe Hop; because life at Kampong Gelam doesn’t revolve around the clock – it revolves around the table. Deciding which ones though, is a topic that warrants an article all on its own – but just to sow some seeds, I have pulled out a few suggestions from my hat, listed down below (See: An Insider’s Insight >> Cafe Hop Like A Local.)

5. Unfortunately, the Malay Heritage Centre is currently closed for major renovation works; but when it’s up, it will be the place you head to, to get to the root of the Malay culture in Singapore and how it all began. Explore its interactive exhibits, historical artefacts, and engaging activities that will take you from past to present. Also, Fun Fact: The Malay Heritage Centre is housed in the original palace grounds that was offered to the Royal Family of Singapore in 1824 for residence (as briefly mentioned above). But you’ll learn all about this (and more) while you’re there.

Where to Get Touristy:
The main public square right outside the Mosque is the place to meander if you’re looking to pick up some wallet-friendly souvenirs or Turkish-inspired ware (close your eyes and you just might feel the Grand Bazaar).

If you’re looking for something a little more meaningful, then explore the likes of Haji Lane instead; where you will find a cluster of home-grown collectives retailing quality pieces from local labels and designers.

PICK A WILD CARD

An Under-the-Radar Spot to Try:
It’s hard to abandon the flourish and confidence that explodes around you at Arab Street, but will yourself to leave the enclave behind and work your way down North Bridge & Victoria Street; and you will continue to find plenty of other retail and cafe gems hidden in plain sight. This includes a Vintage Camera Museum, French-Malay fusion bisto The White Label, Mexican mains Afterwit, homegrown Monarchs & Milkweed Gelato, and even local design collective Curbside Crafters.

A Peculiar Place to Cast Your Eyes:
After taking five hundred photos of the Sultan Mosque from every other angle and in between, feast your eyes on this: Do you see a thick black border encircling the base of its two main onion gold domes? Now look closer. Still don’t see it?

It’s actually a black-coloured belt of glass bottle ends.

These glass bottle ends were donated by the poor and thoughtfully incorporated into the Mosque’s design, as a means of allowing all – and not just the wealthy – an opportunity to contribute to the construction of the Mosque in their own way.

Fascinating, isn’t it?

I Know This Great Little Place:
This won’t be for you if you’re not a cat lover, but, cat cafes are sprouting up left, right, and centre in this neighbourhood. There’s longstanding Meowi Cafe that has been around for as long as I can remember – and then there’s The Cat Museum & Academy, which is kind of like a cat cafe without the cafe (and you’d have to book your visit beforehand too). The last I visited, a promising new place called Playtime with Rescues (a project by cat boarding facility Little Kats) looks set to hatch as well – I’ll be sure to keep you posted here once it does.

an INSIDER’S insight

What Do the Locals Get Up to Here?
Kampong Gelam blends heritage and modern flair with reverence for the local community in which it sits. It might be known as the Muslim Quarter of Singapore- but the hipsters come here for their indie food & retail fix; the school kids come here for the cutesy bubble tea shops and bakeries; the crafters and DIY enthusiasts come here to shop for fabric; foodies-in-the-know come here for some seriously legit Malay food; and the expats come here to soak in the scene across a bevy of eclectic watering holes.

There is a cross-stitch of reasons for finding yourself here and at first glance there seems to be little common language; but together, there is a collective, almost tangible pulse to everyone’s presence and purpose for being there – and it is this pulse that bridges the gap and weaves these distinctly diverse communities into one single, unique tapestry; a true masterpiece that stands as an enduring example of Singapore’s devotion to keep up with the times while holding on to its roots.

What to Really Expect:
If you’ve heard about Singapore being ranked as the Most Instagrammable Destination in the World*, you would probably also know that many of these ‘instagrammable’ spots are saturated right at the heart of Kampong Gelam, from its vibrant shophouses and colourful murals to its snazzy bars and indie boutiques. For this reason, the place gets extremely crowded from as early as 10am- an hour before anything around here even opens- so if you’re pining for a quieter scene (or are just generally really self-conscious about taking photos in public like me 😅), then Get. There. Early. You can definitely get up to alot more creatively, without the steady stream of people constantly infiltrating your background and/or staring at you as you attempt awkward poses against your artful backdrops.

*as ranked by travel publication Big 7 Travel, in 2022.

Trickiest Part of Navigating Kampong Glam:
The one thing I have still not gotten used to after spending my entire life in Singapore (mostly because it isn’t in our culture to interact like this), is the Middle Eastern-esque approach to retailing that borders on the edge of harrassment.

Because this is Singapore’s official Muslim quarter, most ‘Islamic-adjacent’ offerings like Persian rugs, Moroccan lamps, Turkish ceramics, as well as a whole slew of Middle-Eastern dining options, can be found here. Most of these staff/owners are native to their own countries – and if you have ever been to Turkey, Morocco, Egypt, and the likes, you will know exactly what I am talking about. They will attempt irrelevant conversations with you, they will tease you, they will hassle you, they will make window shopping an increasingly uncomfortable experience the more time you spend perusing their wares… the only difference is that here, it feels more like a Lite demo version of the real thing. So while you might be highly irritated especially if this was the last thing you expected to experience in Singapore, you will neither be catcalled nor be made to feel unsafe. (In short, you will just be, Highly Irritated.)

My tip to get through this without being impolite, is to just smile (without making eye contact) and walk away. Like I said, they’re alot more sanitized than the real deal, so they won’t continue to holler after you, or pester you in a way that teems with stranger danger.

The Locals Don’t Want You to Know About:
All the seemingly ‘non-descript’ food establishments that are so truly legendary, we gatekeep them even from each other.

But it’s okay; today, I’m spilling the tea.

Go wild at:
1 – Kampong Glam Cafe. You won’t miss this because it’s right at the heart of where the Mosque is. Chances are you will often get waylaid into one Turkish restaurant or another leading up to it; but if you resolve to walk on forth, you will discover this unassuming eating place that all the locals know about. Here you’ll find the best of Singaporean Malay and Indian dishes at prices very friendly to your wallet.

2 – Zam Zam Restaurant, across the Mosque but from the other end of things. It’s mostly Indian Muslim feeds – do not miss their Murtabak and Briyani.

3 – Hajjah Maimunah, a true blue old-school Malay restaurant that serves 100% authentic Malay dishes, just the way it’s supposed to be.

4 – Rich & Good Cake Shop. Rich & Good is such a whispered secret amongst Singaporeans that when you bring it up with a local, they will do one of two things, either: Look at you with a quizzical frown because they have no idea what you are talking about – or; Gasp and question you back with a hushed reverence, “OMG you know that place too???“

Expect old-school local bakes the way we used to have it. Do not leave without trying one of their Swiss Rolls.

Cafe Hop Like A Local:
Where do I even begin? This is one of Singapore’s most concentrated ‘hipster cafe’ zones; and your options are infinite. Therefore, I will skip the obvious popping out from a hundred other lists – and guide your eyes towards a quieter, often overlooked side of this enclave instead.

Try:
1. Tipo – I highly recommend making a reservation before visiting – especially if it’s for dinner or the weekends.

2. Working Title – Explore a top cafe-grub menu built on taste-bud singeing burgers.

3. Twenty Grammes – Stop by for a faultless formula of style, ambience, quality ingredients… and some really damn good waffles.

4. Symmetry – Price tags are a little steep here, but Symmetry’s reputation ricochets around the neighbourhood for a reason – plus, they’ve got arguably the best truffle fries in the country (trust me, I’m the human version of a truffle pig).

5. Early Bird – this hidden nest doesn’t have a website and closes pretty early on weekdays (5pm); but just Google ‘Early Bird Jalan Pinang’, and you’ll find reviews and all the convincing you need to not miss this place.

It’s personal

Favourite Childhood Memory:
Whenever I attempt to construct a remembrance of things past, Kampong Gelam stands out as a solid artifact of my childhood; back before it used to be packed cheek to jowl with bars and bistros, back before it became hipster haven. Every ninth month of the Islamic lunar calendar, a festive food bazaar sets up along Kandahar Street in lieu of the holy fasting month, and it hosts an extensive stretch of vendors hawking iftar (the fast-breaking meal) food and drinks that runs the full length of Ramadan. Even as the food choices and showrunners have changed massively through the decades, my captured memories of the place in its 90s glory remain the same, and I can’t help but see glimpses of it every year even as its face continues to evolve with time.

The Kampong Gelam bazaar would always be such a special weekend treat for the family, where we would head to pile up on an assortment of Kuih (lil’ bite-sized Asian sweets that usually lean a little heavy on the use of coconut), Otah (a spicy fish cake of sorts wrapped in leaf parcels), Satay, Briyani – and of course, Bubur (porridge) from the Mosque, my father’s ultimate break-fast staple till the end.

Food was simple back then – none of the elaborate, over-indulgent fare that greets you today; and this foraging expedition would typically happen at 3pm-ish just before the crowds turn into an art of jostling and pushing. We would reach home by 5.30pm, and I would then continue to spend the next hour and a half, watching the clock hands shift at snail’s pace towards Mahgrib (typically around 7pm-ish) where the official time to break fast would finally dawn. The air always felt different – perhaps from the rarity of the entire family having dinner together at the same time- and no matter how good the food was (and it always was), the experience was always somehow, better; just from this life lived together.

Guilty Pleasure Alert:
Oh, undoubtedly the food. Kampong Gelam is like an encyclopaedic selection of Islamic cuisines and cafe chow; and no matter which side of the spectrum you lean, you cannot possibly run out of choices here. I’ve listed some food places above, but other personal tried-and-tested favourites of mine are The Malayan Council (think Malay-Western fusion); Tipo Pasta Bar (you have to try their Pink Sauce); Rumah Makan Minang (really, really good Indonesian-Malay Nasi Padang (i.e. you pick and choose the dishes to go with your rice), and Bussorah Street’s very own Konditori Artisan Bakes (the queue on most days is no joke).

This Draws Me to Kampong Gelam Every Time:
The more time you spend in a place like Kampong Gelam, the more you feel it changing around you – and if you’re lucky, sometimes, you feel yourself changing along with it too.

I go to Kampong Gelam many times a year for many different reasons (food, need-an-indie-gift, food, need-a-plant, food, need-a-cafe, food, need-a-friend) – but the one constant that draws me back every single time without fail, is the Ramadan Bazaar. As the years pass, I have started mulling over the strangeness of the fact that, these stall keepers who once used to be ‘uncles’ and ‘aunties’ to me, have since been replaced by ‘uncles’ and ‘aunties’ who are now my age and many times possibly even younger than me. The strange notion lies in the cognizance that these are people who were kids when I was a kid; whom, once upon a couple of decades ago, probably strolled these same streets as I did every Ramadan; returning over the years, every single year (as most Muslims would during the fasting month), until we grew to become who and where we are today. How many of them have I unknowingly crossed paths with when we were young? How many of them did I stand side by side with while our older siblings stood in the queue for Samosas and Air Kathiras? How many of them, too, hold this place close to their hearts as a core memory of their childhood?

And in these thoughts I get a taste of how these moments can bind us as a community, not just to each other in our present, but in our past too. And that as much as the Kampong Gelam Ramadan Bazaar has changed – and will continue to change- through the decades, the feeling of community will alway remain – as it did for our parents, and as it shall for our children.

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Enjoy Kampong Gelam, I know I did.