I truly believe that there are some tourist destinations in the world that exist solely for the purpose of disappointing tourists.

But Pamukkale is not one of them.

Scores of people have entered and left the place with varying levels of disappointment, and it’s really not hard to see why. After all, they’d have had spent the months leading up to it being treated to a delectable buffet of images oozing an otherworldly aura, complete with heavenly mists and cloud-kissed ridges and a cascading abundance of ethereal blue travertines. And now that they’re there, they’re gravely disappointed because nothing is turning out quite like what they’d imagined. They’re disappointed that the mists and the clouds don’t exist; theyr’e disappointed that the hot air balloons are nowhere to be found. Mostly, they’re just disappointed at how little water there is – and considering that the whole idea behind Pamukkale is that they’re mineral pools, this is really saying something.

The biggest curse that Pamukkale has had to bear in recent years, unfortunately, is that of humans falsely advertising its faded beauty to the world in exchange for an unsuspecting audience. Travel agencies still turn to photos taken from decades ago, unscrupulously hawking the place off as a fresh-faced debutante when in reality it is well into its respectable Golden Ages; casual creators extrapolate this lie by photoshopping their pictures in any way they can: removing people, adding overlays, multiplying hot air balloons (Pamukkale is a very small town, you won’t see more than ten on a good day – and that’s already pushing it), even trespassing into sections of travertines that are cordoned off… all the while negligent to disclose just how it really was when they were there*.

And the result?

Masses of tourists, sunburned, exhausted, angry, and disenchanted, unable to fathom just how their reality of Pamukkale could have differed so greatly from what they’d seen on the internet.

And I should know. I was almost one of them.

*I’m a huge advocate for utilizing Photoshop as a tool to create photos that inspire feelings; but I also believe when that is done, it should be disclosed. People have literally fallen off cliffs and drowned in tidal waves trying to replicate images on Instagram that were photoshopped without disclaimers.

Like everyone else, my contention with Pamukkale lied solely in the discrepancy between how the place was portrayed, vs what was really there before me. I was flabbergasted. Where were the cascading steps of overflowing travertines? Where were those eyewateringly beautiful blues? Why are there so many people? And where was that tranquility that was, in principle, promised to me?

A foreboding sense of disappointment set in as soon as my first ten minutes of being there – a record for any place that I have ever been to in my life. In fact, it’s probably safe to say that nothing in this world has disappointed me quite as quickly as Pamukkale. I’d reached at 6.30 in the morning that day, and by 7, I was ready to leave. The only thing that held me back was the fact that there is literally nothing else to do in Pamukkale; and so the question remained, that if I’d left, would I really be doing anything better?

The answer was no of course, and so I had to go and and ask myself plenty of other questions to help recalibrate my own expectations. Perhaps, the most helpful question that successfully helped me turn this whole thing around was when I asked myself if this place would have enchanted me, if I hadn’t seen all those photos on the internet and had somehow just stumbled upon it out of nowhere?

And the answer was a Yes. A thousand times Yes.

And that was when it became clear: It wasn’t Pamukkale that was disappointing me. It was me, and my own preconceived notions, constructed upon a foundation of lies from social media and the internet, that was truly letting me down.

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I truly believe that there are some tourist destinations in the world that exist solely for the purpose of disappointing tourists, but Pamukkale is not one of them. If you manage your expectations – or better yet, go there with none; you will find that the hidden beauty of Pamukkale – one that goes beyond its bygone looks and photoshopped glamour – has exactly what it takes to leave footprints on your soul after all.

A SECRET SOUTH ENTRANCE OPENS AT 6.30AM.

If photos are going to be the main reason why you came, you have to use this entrance. This is the only way you will be able to get in before anyone else – because the place officially opens at 8am, but this entrance lets you in at 6.30am.

This gifts you with a glorious 90-minute headstart before the crowds come pouring in (and they will, by the busloads), and you’re going to want to use every minute to its fullest. Even then, don’t expect to be the only one there just because it’s an unearthly time to begin the day – there will be other like-minded people, but in a modest-enough number that just might make the whole load of you acquaintances for the day.

Important side note: it’s not practical to reach the South Entrance by foot; it’s a long and winding road uphill and of course Google will tell you it’s only a 45-minute walk away. Obviously it isn’t, because you’ll literally be scaling a hill the entire way. A cab will be your best bet if you don’t have your own transport, but even those come few and far between that early in the morning. If possible, lock in some transport arrangement the night before to minimize waiting time.

* There are a total of 3 entrances to Pamukkale: the main one is the West Entrance which opens at 8am. It’s very walkable from town (5-10mins tops), but does not have parking space. There is apparently also a North Entrance – although, I did not notice this one when I was there. The North Entrance also opens at 8am, and has parking space.

DON’T DO A DAY TRIP.

Many people will tell you to venture to Pamukkale as a day trip from big neighbouring cities like Izmir and Antalya and Oludeniz – and the idea in itself is intriguing. After all, options for things to see/do/eat in this sleepy village is almost non-existent; and technically, it is only just 3-4 hours away. Why waste any more time than you have to sleeping and waking up in Pamukkale?

Because ‘just 3-4hours away‘ means a total of 8 hours of your day wasted on the road. It means arriving with a whole busload of people – together with plenty of other busloads from all directions – and being whisked away the same. It means reaching just when it’s about the hottest time of the day, and having to leave right before the temperatures start to cool. It also means missing the opportunity for a sunset at the Cotton Castle, even though your ticket allows you a full-day entry and technically you can stay till it closes if you wanted to.

Many people will tell you to venture to Pamukkale as a day trip, but they probably won’t mention all the things you’ll miss when you do. Unless you don’t mind spending more than half your waking day in a vehicle and jostling with crowds as soon as your feet touch the ground, I think it’s pretty safe to say that your trip will not be quite as you envisaged, if you were to do a day trip from a neighbouring city.

Take that day out. Venture to Pamukkale by being in Pamukkale.

NO FOOTWEAR ALLOWED ON THE TRAVERTINES.

So be careful! It can be super slippery at some parts – imagine walking on slimy rocky surfaces at the beach.

Consider extra precaution if mobility is an issue (e.g. don’t travel alone, keep your baggage light, ensure you’re always grabbing on to the sides of the travertines, etc.) or if you’re travelling with a baby, consider bringing a carrier because strollers are prohibited inside.

WATERPROOF YOUR STUFF.

The only lockers available here are at Cleopatra’s Ancient Pool (chargeable), which, unfortunately, will be quite a ways from where you are no matter which entrance you take. The most convenient way about this is to just bring plastic bags/sheets so that you can lay your stuff on the ground without anything getting overly wet; or better yet, opt for a waterproof carryall. There aren’t designated spots for people to leave their belongings per se, but there is an overall sense of safety here so as long as you keep your things close to you and have your eye on them, you shouldn’t have to be on tenterhooks the whole time.

That said, please do still exercise caution. If you’re travelling in a group, take turns doing guard duty; or simply just opt for pools that are less crowded. The pools right at the bottom (closest to the West entrance) are usually the least occupied because they look a little non-descript, but personally, that was where I spent most of my time lounging, and I even managed to sneak in these shots.

BYOF (BRING YOUR OWN FOOD).

And water. And anything else you think you will need to fuel you through the day. The F&B price tags within the premises are astoundingly exorbitant- and I don’t even mean this in the context of Turkey; I mean that it’s so astoundingly exorbitant it’s probably overpriced even in your own country- so if you’re travelling on a budget or perhaps just like me and cannot get over spending $4 on a Magnum when it’s $1.50 across the road; then pack your own snacks and water.

That said, there are a couple of cafes and I think it’s fine to indulge if you’re going for the experience, but splurging on bare essentials is another thing altogether and I really wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re travelling heavy and these things add considerable inconvenience.

DON’T MISS HIERAPOLIS.

You’ve come all the way, and your ticket is good for the entire day – so why ever not?

I only popped by Hierapolis as an afterthought, following the fact that every Pamukkale article I found on the intenet highly recommended not skipping this when you’re there.

And what do you know? They’re all right. Despite all the photos I’d already seen on the internet, Hierapolis’ ancient-worldly aura still managed to take my breath away. It reaffirmed my decision to pencil Ephesus into my itinerary – so much so that when I finally got to Ephesus days later, ironically, I found myself disappointed because Hierapolis had somehow sneaked a benchmark into my subconscious; one that overcrowded, confusing, and heatstroke-inducing Ephesus sadly failed to meet.

Don’t skip it. You really don’t have much to lose and besides, if you’re already at Cotton Castle, Hierapolis is literally just, there.

THE THING ABOUT CLEOPATRA’S ANCIENT POOL.

A couple of things to note:

There is a separate entrance fee to use the pool here. It’s not cheap, but it’s not overly expensive either. If anything, I’d say it’s value for money… except;

It is mad crowded here. Even though the South Entrance lets you in at 6.30am, Cleopatra’s Ancient Pool will only open its gates to the public at 8; and there are buses that literally arrive on the dot to release swarms of people onto the premises. By ten minutes to 8, I personally witnessed two busloads full of tourists already waiting to get in.

As far as the crowd situation goes, you will not catch a break here. Your only hope is to time your trip to Turkey during the most off-season part of the year*- or you can also hope to strike the Mega Millions, upon which you can then rent out the entire place to yourself for the day.

*I visited in the peak of Summer because, guess what, I forgot it was Summer. It’s what happens when your country has no seasons.

DON’T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU SEE ON THE INTERNET.

The photos you see circulating on travel websites sometimes date back to more than 30 years ago.

A considerable number of thermal pools have since dried up.

Many of the existing travertines that are in use today are actually man-made.

The pretty ones you still see now (like the ones at the start of this Tiktok) are for photo opp only, and you’re not allowed to go in.

And if you come across influencers who have photos that prove otherwise, check when their photo was taken. Things have changed so much since the pandemic; and I can’t help but think that there is a part of the Cotton Castle that was once accessible to public, that is now closed.

MANAGE YOUR EXPECTATIONS

It’s not that you won’t enjoy Pamukkale. It’s that you won’t enjoy Pamukkale if you go there expecting to receive some grand pictorial experience that its internet profile may have misguided you to conjure. In fact, if you’re planning a trip here exclusively for photos and nothing else, then I highly advise you to skip it; because, between the crowds and the general misrepresentation of its aesthetic online, it’s almost toxic positivity to see Pamukkale bare-faced for what it really is and not leave feeling disappointed.

But, if you come knowing what to expect – or rather, what not to expect- and you are willing to traverse forth with an open heart; then perhaps, you’ll realize that the true sweetness of Pamukkale lies not in your ability to hunt down every vantage point and outdo every Pamukkale shot that you see on social media – or even to turbotourist through the place in 4hours or less – but quite simply, in doing nothing.

Dolce far niente. In today’s mad whirl of travel where it’s all about the notable must-sees and bucket list must-dos, the true draw of Pamukkale, lies in the sweetness of doing nothing.

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Enjoy Pamukkale. I know I did (after I set my expectations right).