For all the glamour and glory that comes with the famous streets and iconic landmarks of popular city destinations, there is an undeniable beauty to its more peculiar, offbeat counterparts that often go unnoticed.

Nestled away from your standard urban formula of tourist throngs and hot-ticket must-sees; you, instead, stumble upon narrow alleyways and quality must-dos, all seemingly hidden behind unassuming facades that reveal themselves only in the simplest of moments—a shared smile with a local vendor, the echo of laughter spilling from a neighborhood tavern, the serendipitous encounter with a kindred spirit.

When I first started travelling solo in 2013, picking off-grid destinations was the central theme to my entire travel strategy. I was never really one who could fit in naturally or flow seamlessly with the crowd; and so when it came to travel, I was even more adamant about avoiding common places everyone else was going. If the crowd was at Bali, I’d head off to Bandung; and if the trend was London then I’d be all the way up north in Iceland.

I picked out second cities* even before second cities was a thing; often times literally spinning the globe on my desk and stopping it with my index finger to pick the one out of three that was most unvisited.

Needless to say, my process for picking destinations has evolved much since then – and while it can be argued that my reason for selecting second cities has definitely matured beyond novelty, the allure of these offbeat destinations, to me, has never waned. Today, I continue to traverse lesser-known paths not just to avoid tourist traps or beat crowds or even to just stand out for the sake of standing out; but to create a more personal and profound experience for myself – one hopefully shaped by something more than just sights and activities. Most – if not all- of these destinations were solo-travelled; and through the solitude of these road less traveled, I was privileged to encounter as much kindness as I did mishaps, and to have been able to forge memories that are going on strong to last a lifetime.

In what I hope will become a trilogy of posts, here is the first instalment of the 4 most offbeat countries I have ever visited; how I found myself there, tips and core experiences – and perhaps most importantly, what I truly think of them, some eleven years on.

*second-city tourism is based on the idea of exploring lesser-known cities or destinations within a country, to avoid major capital cities and typical tourism hotspots.

NEPAL

Nepal is the ultimate bucket list entry, the one raw adventure the intrepid crave for at least once in their lives. The second you step out of Kathmandu, the country unravels like a world unto itself: a land of brooding mountains, overwhelming beauty, and a mosaic of ethnic cultures that is unanimously agreed as the one most resolutely charming detail of Nepal.

Like countless before me, my purpose for Nepal was the Everest Base Camp trek, a sixteen-day rugged expedition that brings us to the foothills of the tallest mountain of our world. From the get-go, your flight to Lukla is already one whole league of an experience on its own altogether. Put aside the naysay about Tenzing-Hillary Airport being the most dangerous airport in the world (it actually really is); the views you see getting there more than make up for any fear about not getting there. Mountains upon mountains drenched in brilliant sunlight, blazes of snowcapped peaks that give you a real sense of scale. As you cross this immense landscape, you will be treated to a startling resplendence that will, most certainly, evoke an immediate cosmic consciousness that will set the right tone for the rest of your trek. 

It is often said that while you first come to Nepal for the mountains, you return for the people. From your low-key Sherpas to the boisterous next generation of little ones, Nepalis are across the board, the happiest people I have ever seen – even with the harshness of their landscapes deeply etched upon the burns on their faces.

This country may have its own fair share of sights and Mountain Ranges, but if you ask me, the clear winner has always been the magic of its people.

I Visited In: 2013

Destinations Included: the capital Kathmandu; Lukla; Phakding;Namche; Tengboche; Dingboche; Lobuche; Gorak Shep

Recommended for Solo Travel? Yes if you’re just holing up in Kathmandu; No if you’re intending to take on EBC. I’m in no position to hold a Ted Talk about mountaineering; but I’ve always believed that, as far as the Himalayas goes, the pursuit is best undertaken as part of a group – or at least, with a climbing partner.

What’s the Transport Scene Like? It’s been ten years and I’d like to think there might be some improvements in the city since; but as a tourist, your most utilised pick will likely be a taxi or ride-hailing apps such as Tootle or Pathao or the increasingly popular inDriver. The more intrepid can check out their tourist buses, express buses, and even local buses; but no, there are no trains – at least, not one that will likely come in handy for your itinerary (unless you’re planning to cross into India).

Once on the mountains, there are only two ways you can commute: using your legs, or a helicopter (and I pray you never need the latter).

Surprisingly Good Food Finds:
☆ Momos, which is kind of like their version of Chinese dumplings. You can get them steamed or fried (I like fried).
☆ Chatamari, better known as Nepali Pizza – except it’s not really like pizza, but more akin to thin-ish rice flour crepe topped with everything-but-the-kitchen-sink.
☆ Thukpa, the ultimate comfort food of the country. It’s essentially soup noodles but with a Tibetan-Chinese-Nepalese kick; and is so super wholesome, especially when you’re on trek.

Go If You…
☆ Are a nature/adventure enthusiast at heart. It’s the Himalayas, what else can be said?
☆ Seek spirituality. On top of monasteries and yoga and meditation retreats, you will also find many iconic pilgrimage sites, especially of the Buddhist/Hindu origin.
☆ Like backpacking. Nepal is super budget-friendly, and is extremely enjoyable to do on a shoestring.

Don’t Go If You…
☆ Are a luxury-only traveller.
☆ Are a water baby. Nepal is landlocked, and there are no coastal escapes. (You may, however, still be able to locate extreme water sports like whitewater rafting in one of their mountain treks).
☆ Need a night life. Nepal is not known for its party scene.
☆ Have limited mobility: Nepal’s terrain (even in the city) is notoriously rugged.
☆ Are sensitive to high altitudes – although, admittedly, this is something we can only find out when we’re in it. This read about AMS might prove fruitful, in case you’re wondering how rigourous it gets.

3 Core Memories:
☆ Seeing snow for the first time (and in the month of May??)
☆ Crossing a suspension bridge with a (chaperoned) yak coming from the other direction, and freezing in place as it casually passed me by
☆ Trekking through seven hours of knee-deep snow back from Gorak Shep, which left me with completely waterlogged boots and socks that I had to continue using for the rest of the trek. 🙂

My Top 3 Tips:
☆ Pack For All Weathers. Nepal’s weather is more perilous than a brooding teenager, you can literally go from sun to snow in a day (true story 🥲). Plan for an adjustable, multi-layered wardrobe that is just as easy to put on as it it to take off.
☆ I know I said that I hope you’d never need that helicopter, but if you’re trekking (especially the mountains), Do Not Scrimp On Insurance unless you have the money for full cover in case of emergencies. Make sure your plan covers everything, including emergency evacuations plus any other procedure you think might be impending. Upfront payment is expected (yes, even in the face of death); and people have literally died because of it.
☆ Another tip for the trekkers: Do Not Order Meat in restaurants and lodging houses past your fifth day on any trek. The legs-only commute applies to everything when you’re on the mountains – even food and supplies; so if it took you five days to get there, it probably took the sherpas three-to-four days to get them there. And they don’t carry refrigerators or iceboxes on their backs, in case you’re wondering. The meat remains raw and unrefrigerated through the entire journey, carelessly wrapped in canvas and tied with rope and strapped on their backs; and parts of it will even be exposed to the surroundings, from sun to rain to snow.

RWANDA

Rugged and dramatic, Rwanda’s iridescent hills and faraway setting make a strong appeal to those drawn by peace, solitude, and a dash of adventure – in fact, it feels like it should be the whole point of any Rwandan journey. With a history as dense and tangled as the shrubland that swathes its hillsides, much of the country remains inaccessible to the average traveller – but perhaps it is this very inaccessibility that has preserved the flavour of this tiny little country.

Against such a backdrop, everything feels like a million miles away from where you are, and life moves at such a soporific pace with a hypnotic out-of-time, off-map allure. It’s like walking through a painting of vast horizons: mystical, climatic, and exhilarating all at once; and this visual feast comes complete with exotic honey-coloured towns comfortably nestled in the foothills, hiding a spirited line-up of local markets, provision shops, and family-run eating houses. An amble offers the best glimpse into the Rwandan culture: there’s a gentle rhythm to each day, a living, bustling landcape inhibited by a nation of people united by a haunting past. It’s literally a soul-powering lesson in forgiveness and recovery, right smack in the absolute middle of nowhere. 

My personal story with Rwanda is that my brother made me sit through all 122 minutes of Hotel Rwanda when I turned eighteen. At an age where I had little inclination towards anything that wasn’t a chick flick or a cartoon, I naturally got bored. Then somewhat intrigued. Sixty minutes in I became very disturbed. And when it finally ended, I was left with a strong conviction that I had to see this land.

And then one day I just, did.

I Visited In: 2015

Destinations Included: Kigali

Recommended for Solo Travel? Perhaps if you’re extremely familiar and have profound experience with the East African travelscape. Otherwise, it is best enjoyed as part of a travel group.

What’s the Transport Scene Like? If you’re traversing on your own, consider the good old taxi cab option – or, there are also ‘shared taxis’ which are basically minibuses/vans that depart when they have collected enough people – which might not be feasible if you have a schedule to stick to.

Alternatively, seek out their public buses. They have a well-surfaced road network and I hear their bus systems are reliable; so it’s not as intimidating as it sounds.

Surprisingly Good Food Finds:
☆ Rwandan cuisine is made up mainly of staples like beans and wheat and plants and vegetables, and Ugali, which is kind of like a cassava porridge, is your official initation into the world of Rwandan food. It serves like the base to side dishes (think rice), and has a mild flavour to it – like popcorn.
☆ Isombe looks a little questionable at first, mostly because it’s mashed cassava leaves in a stew-like form and looks a little like puke. Don’t be fooled though – these mashed veggies are often cooked together with other veggies – like onions, leeks, eggplants, coriander, garlic, tomatoes, and bell peppers- and to hold it all together, topped with a spoonful of peanut butter and oil. The result? Startlingly wholesome and feel-good.
☆ Rwandan cuisine does all kinds of magic with Plantains so order it in any shape or form if you ever comes across it on the menu. An honourable mention would be the Mizuzu; basically, fried plantain chips.

Go If You Are…
☆ A primate lover! The full gamut of who’s-who can be found here, from Mountain Gorillas to Chimpanzees to the Blue & Golden and Colobus Monkeys and more.
☆ Evoked by history. Kigali has poignant memorials and insightful museums that offer a deep dive into the country’s dark genocidal past.
☆ Into culture. Rwanda has one of the richest and most diverse cultural heritages in the region; and you will be well-immersed in its traditions, rituals, music, dance, art, and language.
☆ An eco-conscious traveller. Rwanda is committed to sustainable tourism and conservation efforts, and it is extremely easy to find sustainable lodges and fill your days with activities that contribute meaningfully to protecting its natural resources and supporting its local communities.

Don’t Go If You…
☆ Are Immunocompromised. I feel like Rwanda is as good as it gets in East Africa, but if you have existing medical conditions that can be potentially exacerbated, it is best you run this idea by your healthcare professional first and consider the full risks before taking the leap.
☆ Need luxury. Once again, this is not a destination suited for comfort travelling.
☆ Have limited mobility: Most of Rwanda’s best are found in national parks and forests.

3 Core Memories:
☆ While gorilla trekking, seeing a Silverback go up to his (wife? female partner??) and pull her in for a hug, while a bunch of kid gorillas ranging from toddler to teen frolicked around them like, well, monkeys. Of all the humanistic behaviors I’d ever seen exhibited by a primate, this was by far the most humanistic one of them all; and till this day, I can still vividly recall the scene inside my head and it still sends goosebumps up and down my spine.
☆ Stumbling across a local wet market and as a result, being unexpectedly treated to an authentic essence of the daily live of Rwandans.
☆ Passing my twenty-eighth birthday in a country that I’d spent a decade dreaming about visiting, but never thinking that one day it’d acually manifest (I did not plan for it. Everything just, was).

My Top 3 Tips:
☆ Do Not Bring Any Plastics. Rwanda has a strict ban on plastics and they will literally confiscate any plastics they find on you at the airport (or border crossing). I’m not kidding, they are dead serious about this one. Like, dump-out-all-your-stuff-in-public-and-confiscate-your-plastics serious.
☆ Again, dead serious: Disable Your GPS function When Uploading Content On To Social Media. Poachers use online and digital information to track highly endangered animals. Think twice before providing explicitly specific location details about your encounter, especially immediately after it happens.
☆ This should apply anywhere in the world but I’m going to reiterate here because the urge will be strong: Always Ask For Permission Before Taking Photos of People, children or adult. It’s just travel etiquette 101 and besides, no one likes being treated as a subject against their will.

ICELAND

Belief in elves and dwarves isn’t tea time fodder spouted by a bunch of crazy old people after a bad game of bridge – it’s Iceland’s national identity. 

Perhaps Iceland isn’t quite as uncommon a travel destination now as it was when I first stepped foot onto its lands one decade ago, but it definitely still isn’t anyone’s most obvious choice when Europe comes to mind.

This is because Iceland demands much from the imagination – the country itself is flushed with a remarkably magical history, culture, and sweeping landscapes; but there is little tangible evidence to show for any of it (except maybe the last). There are no famous pyramids or paintings, no legendary statues or abbeys. Sometimes, there isn’t even sunlight. But what Iceland lacks, it more than makes up for with true, unparalleled, (almost unbelievable sometimes), beauty; and it can be said that it takes a certain kind of traveller – an outlandish one at heart- to appreciate it for the deep, bottomless pit of geographic wonders that it is.

Expect the entire gamut, from steep-sided fjords and glacier-carved valleys to moonlight lava fields, bubbling mudpots, geysirs, ethereal Northern Lights that dance in the skies certain months of the year – plus the fact that the entire country is splitting apart at a rate of 2cm a year*, Iceland is a place of folklore-ish proportions; and as long as you’re all in for the ride, it will truly deliver.

* Iceland, the youngest country in Europe, was formed by underwater volcanic eruptions along the joints of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates some 17-20 million years ago. Unfortunately, these two Plates are now drifting apart from each other at a rate of 2cm a year – and while no one (at least, no one living in the near future of human civilisation) will ever see it split into two landmasses**, the movement is largely responsible for increasingly frequent earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.

** In fact, it can be argued that, over a vast period of time, it is more likely that the drift will eventually contribute to new land formation (e.g volcanic islands, underwater ridges etc.) that will increase the overall landmass of Iceland.

I Visited In: 2014

Destinations Included: Reykjavik, Selfoss, Vik

Recommended for Solo Travel? Yes- and if you can drive, then yesYesYESYESWHATAREYOUWAITINGFORYES.

What’s the Transport Scene Like? There are no trains in Iceland so as far as public transportation goes, all we have is the bus. There is a hop-on-hop-off that goes around all the main sights in Reykjavik which is extremely nifty; but for all else, you will likely need to arrange for your own transport.

Surprisingly Good Food Finds:
☆ Pylsur is more than just a hotdog – it’s The Icelandic Hotdog. Don’t diss it until you’ve tried it.
☆ Icelandic Fish. In a place where ‘Fish of the Day’ can literally mean the fish was caught today, it is a crime to snub it on the menu. They smoke it, they dry it, they grill it, they fry it; and you’ll probably see alot of different kinds of fish you can’t find back home too. Whatever it is, order it. You won’t be disappointed.
☆ This is not so much surprisingly good than it is just surprising – but if you’re particularly adventurous with your food, you might want to hunt down some Puffin & Whale meat. It is extremely popular in Icelandic cuisine and many restaurants serve them. I didn’t because I had a hard time wrapping my head around the idea (especially whales); but go for it if you want the bucket list entry.

Go If You…
☆ Like getting off the beaten path. The entire Iceland, is practically a land off the beaten path.
☆ Enjoy road trips. Plenty – and I mean plenty– of opportunities abound.
☆ Love exploring nature’s terrain. From volcanoes and glaciers to waterfalls, mountains, geothermal springs, and more, this country offers an extremely rare and diverse range of landscapes that you otherwise cannot find in any other region in this world.

Don’t Go If You…
☆ Are travelling on a shoestring. Iceland is infamously expensive to travel and it is next to impossible to cut corners.
☆ Prefer bustling urban travel environments.
☆ Find nature travelling boring. Nature is 95% of Iceland’s travel itinerary.
☆ Seek the comfort of household names when travelling. Iceland is renowned for being highly self-sufficient and have next-to-no international brands and labels in the country; although, that said, they do have their own local version of everything, from McDonalds & Starbucks to Lays, The North Face, and more. It’s actually highly enjoyable because The Icelandics are a very creative and witty people; but if what you need is the comfort of a familiar face, then this place is going to leave you stranded and homesick.

3 Core Memories:
☆ Seeing a geyser in real life. It seems so trivial, but it’s actually one of the most fascinating things of nature I’ve ever seen! (P.S. the water is SO HOT you can feel it even at a distance.)
☆ Being on a black sand beach and poignantly reminding mysef that I am stepping on volcanic lava that has since hardened over hundreds of years to become black basaltic rock fragments
☆ Seeing the Northern Lights???? Literally for A DECADE I assumed it was something that just happens when you’re on tour… until ten years later when I popped by Sweden and then Finland, two years in a row, tried countless times between both destination, and failed to see it once at all.

My Top 3 Tips:
☆ Do Not Plan for the Northern Lights on the Last Day. Most agencies in Iceland offer a complimentary ‘second chance’ trip if you miss it the first time round; it would be a wasted opportunity if you really needed it.
☆ Like Nepal, Pack for Unpredictable Weather. Iceland’s weather is notoriously tumultuous, and changes occur rapidly through the day. Be sure to pack and dress accordingly, with layers that can be added or removed as needed. Waterproof and windproof clothing is essential, as is sturdy footwear for exploring rugged terrain.
☆ If you can, Rent A Vehicle – Or Go With Someone Who Can Drive. Iceland is dotted with thousands of unique spots to explore and Viator trips can only show you that much. This is one country best ventured by stepping off the beaten path and treading the unknown.

BHUTAN

The first thing you will learn before you land, is that Bhutan’s mountains are some of the most prominent natural geographic features of the country. After all, it shares the Himalayan view with a sacred select handful of other countries; and one of the two nations it shares geographical borders with cannot even be accessed by land because of said mountains.

But that’s just the tip of the iceberg mountain top.

Bhutan is incidentally also the first (and only) country that rejected the Gross Domestic Product Index in place of Gross National Happiness, where development is measured based on non-economic factors like health, psychological well-being, cultural and ecological diversity, among many other things. Education and medical care is free for all citizens, and no policy is enacted unless it passes the happiness filter. Since 1971, the country has championed the belief that well-being should take precedence over material growth; and as much as of a global oddity this has made it become – in today’s world of collapsing financial systems and wide-scale environmental destruction, perhaps, Bhutan is having the last laugh.

Click to Read More About My Bhutan Daily Travelogue.

I Visited In: 2018

Destinations Included: Thimphu, Punakha, Haa, Paro

Recommended for Solo Travel? You can’t.

Unless you’re from a member of SAARC (basically a citizen of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, or Sri Lanka), your only access to this country is via a tour operator. You might be able to find one that’s pretty lax about being Free & Easy; but ultimately, you cannot “solo travel” Bhutan in the most traditional sense of the word.

What’s the Transport Scene Like? Except for intertown and intercity buses, there is no presence of a public transportation system at all. You need to make sure you have access to a car (this is where your tour operator starts to look like a really appealing option); otherwise, you will be left stranded the second you get off at the airport.

Surprisingly Good Food Finds:
☆ I was addicted to Ema Datshi when I was there, a traditional Bhutanese stew that is primarily melted Yak Cheese and a ton load of chillies. The taste is unforgettable. I’m crying just thinking about it now. (P.S. There is also the Shakam Datshi, which is basically the same thing but with beef; and Kewa Datshi, which is potatoes. tldr, keep your eyes peeled for the word ‘Datshi‘.)
☆ Suja, a local Bhutanese tea made with yak butter and yak milk. Dairy lovers will worship this one.
☆ Khatem, which are thin bittergourd slices fried to absolute perfection. Trust me, you’d never realize bittergourd could taste this good.

Go If You…
☆ Appreciate slow, mindful travel/living. This was possibly one of the SLOWEST destinations I’ve ever been to in my life, and till today, my heart is still so full from it.
☆ Are spritually inclined. I cannot even begin to draw to you the extensiveness of the Buddhist philosophy and practice that is embedded into the people’s day-to-day.
☆ Are curious & open-minded about Culture, History, and Religion. Bhutan is a humanities crash course like none other; and from ancient monasteries perched on misty mountain peaks to vibrant festivals celebrating the most riveting customs and traditions, there is profound opportunities for learning and immersion at every turn – but only if you are interested to know.

Don’t Go If You…
☆ Are on a budget. The cost of living here is low, but the full gamut of tourist tariffs actually make this one of the priciest travel destinations I have been to.
☆ Feel restricted by tour guides and itineraries. Like I said, unless you’re from a SAARC nation, your only way in is through a tour operator. Most should be open to customizing your itinerary with you to make it as comfortable as possible; but ultimately, you will not have full reign of your trip – and no, you cannot shake them off.
☆ Prefer fast-paced travelling.
☆ Are prone to motion sickness. You will spend alot (and I mean alot) of time driving up and down winding roads and navigating bumpy terrains.

3 Core Memories:
☆ Hitting the Valley of Punakha, the town of penises with a very spiritual history behind why/how it became a town of penises. It’s been six years, and I still can’t get over it.
☆ Conquering the Tiger’s Nest.
☆ Three hours of accidental free & easy time in Paro that gave me the gift of wandering the streets unaccompanied and discovering the rhythmic clatter of Bhutan in its purest, most unadulterated form. It was bliss etched into the senses; and remains to date one of the most simple, unassuming travel moments I’d ever lived. My heart was free.

My Top 3 Tips:
☆ Respect Local Customs and Traditions: Bhutan’s landscape is deeply rooted in religion. Dress modestly at religious sites such as monasteries and dzongs. Remove hats, sunglasses, and shoes before entering religious buildings, and always ask for permission before taking photographs inside temples or of monks.
☆ If you’re looking for some real authentic brush with culture and nature, Consider Eastern Bhutan. Most tours do the Thimphu-Punakha-Paro circuit – which was what I did; and which was what I felt was a little… performative at times. If you have time (and money), seek out a tour operator that offers alternative routes southeast of Paro.
☆ Bhutan’s internet connection is spotty at best – infuriating, if you actually need to get work done. So, don’t. Put down everything that is not important to you here and now, and just, Enjoy Being In The Present. You’re in Bhutan, for God’s sake. The internet can wait.

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