As I continue on my seemingly neverending quest to unlock all thirteen states of Malaysia, I have always pondered how my trip to Kelantan would take shape. This is, after all, a destination of little consequence; a place that most people travel through – not to; and in my mind, I’d always presumed it would turn out to be one of those haphazard day trips clumsily squeezed into a part of a larger, more important itinerary, to, say, Terrengganu, or Kedah, or even the South of Thailand.

The day that I arrived in Kelantan however, I find that it is not in response to any of the above; but to a plea, from my brother who needed a babysitter for his 9-year-old daughter (my 9-year-old niece) while he chased the tallest Southeast Asian waterfall all the way up in Kelantan, 660km and 10 hours away from where we are. (What can I say, my brother is clearly inflicted with an incurable malady.) This is perfect, I thought. Now I can cross Kelantan off my list and leave my future Terrengganu/Kedah itineraries unencumbered, plus transport + accomodation would be provided, plus also, I would be doing my family a solid … what else can a girl with a keen desire to visit all thirteen states of Malaysia wish for?

I know what you are thinking: This is not the best mindset to approach any adventure. But this is a passion project that I am hopelessly rooted in, and I certainly wasn’t going to be the type of person to let such an opportunity pass me by. Right now, any invitation that gets me closer to completing my wish list is an invitation acceded. And even as I calculated that we would be located in Kelantan’s heart of nowhere, two hours away from the capital of Kota Bahru (which I absolutely had to go to otherwise Kelantan could not be considered ‘visited’ (What can I say, I am clearly also inflicted with an incurable malady), I was nevertheless determined that I was going to manifest it some way, somehow.

And I did.

The ‘how’ is certainly not a proud story for me to tell (and you will find out why once you read the rest of this), but the important thing is that it happened; and the payoff is that Kelantan unfolded before me in ways I could never have anticipated. This is a place that is eight parts rural nature and two parts historic suburban charm, and I don’t know how I could possibly have thought a fleeting day trip could do it any justice. There are paddy fields and coastlines and rolling hills and rustic fishing villages (all of which I missed, by the way), and to truly delve into its remarkable tapestry would take weeks (if not months) of anyone’s good time.

Still, every missed sight, every unvisited corner, represented a lesson in humility for me; a stark reminder that no itinerary can encapsulate the entirety of a place in one single visit (much less in a day); and that sometimes, your truest discoveries will only be found in the spaces between those plans.

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3 Apps That Will Make Your Life Easier Here: Disclaimer:I’ve mentioned these three apps before at various points across my other ‘Unlocking Malaysia…‘ articles, so at the risk of repeating myself…
1) Grab. You can’t go to Malaysia and not have Grab.
2) Waze, which my brother used the entire trip and which is so utterly legit in action (it warns you of traffic police ahead)
3) FoodPanda… for food reasons.

Here, Most People Flock Straight To: Kota Bharu – if they even make it to this part of Malaysia at all.

My First Impression of Kelantan In Five Words: Traditional, Idyllic, Humble, Communal, Time-Honoured

A Meaningful Kelantan Itinerary Would Include: Markets, Historic Landmarks, Shophouses, and a spot of Nature.

I Woke Up With: A story that’s going to paint us all in a terrible light.

Long story short, our original plan to put up at an Airbnb homestay didn’t quite work out because, well, because we were spoilt like brats; and less than 3 hours after checking in on the first day, my brother and I were already neck deep scheming our getaway to a full-fledged hotel in Kota Bharu. (see how I manifested?)

In the Airbnb’s defence, it was a homestay, and it wasn’t as if it positioned itself as a haven of luxury and not deliver – it actually even had a pretty solid air-conditioning system. But there was no hot water, and there was no fridge, and after reluctantly throwing away a whole bunch of perishables we’d amassed from KL because they definitely wouldn’t keep the night- as least, not with all these fascinating insect specimens that we were encountering for the first time in our lives- we caved, and we caved like a cheap umbrella in a storm.

We are terrible people, I know. My brother carried the guilt and I carried the shame – all 140km up to our freshly booked suite at the Grand Riverview Hotel.

And to be perfectly honest? Neither of us felt particularly remorseful about our decision.

The First Thing I Did After Checking In Was: Give thanks. Our night before had led me to contemplate all of life’s most overlooked luxuries. Like hot water. And showers. And bedsheets. And TV. And a working refrigerator. And the freedom to leave my luggage open overnight without the fear that a cockroach might nestle into my belongings in the dark.

The first thing I did after checking in was, to give thanks – for all the things I’d always assumed were a given, but which I now know are a gift.

The Best Way to Move Around Kelantan Is By: Car.

The fact that it took two hours to get from one point to another inside the state of Kelantan, should be testament enough to the expanse of this state. It’s not the biggest Malaysia has – but it is definitely very sizeable. Unless you’re planning to spend all your time exclusively at Kota Bharu (to which I’d then say you don’t need a car, you just need the Grab app), you should probably have a drive – or find someone who does.

This Experience Is A Must: Explore the alleys of shophouses in the town centre and discover local wall murals and indie cafes juxtaposed against old restorans and vanishing trades. It’s suspended in the past in a way that is quiet and charismatic, so adjust your pace accordingly so all this does not go past you unnoticed.

If I Had 24 Hours In Kelatan, I Would: Spend it in Kota Bharu. The best parts of this city can be covered in a day- even at leisure’s pace; and you’d probably still have time left for second-tier attractions.

If I Can Only Eat One Thing Here, It’s: Nasi Kerabu. Nasi Kerabu is a traditional Malay rice dish known for its vibrant blue rice (it gets its colour from butterfly pea flowers); and is typically served with a medley of fresh herbs, vegetables, meat, and choice side dishes.

Of course you can find Nasi Kerabu anywhere, but somehow, nothing beats having it in Kelantan. Perhaps it’s because Nasi Kerabu is more than just a bunch of accompaniments plated together with blue rice, but an immersion into the very finesse of the state’s historical and culinary narrative; and for that reason, if you can only eat one thing when you’re in Kelantan, make it Nasi Kerabu.

For A True Taste of Local Food, Also Try: Nasi Tumpang (your rice is served in a cone-shaped structure and the entire thing is a pure piece of art); Laksam (not to be confused with Laksa); and Khao Yam (which is somewhat similar to Nasi Kerabu, but with a strong Thai influence.).

The Kelantan Locals Don’t Want You to Know About: Nasi Kak Wok – and for most part, people don’t, even as it lays out there like an open secret for all to see.

Named after its original creator, the late Kak Wok, Nasi Kak Wok is essentially Kelantanese comfort food at its finest, so much so that there are currently only a handful of stalls across Kelantan serving it with its original recipe. It’s simple, it’s satisfying, and most locals will tell you – if they even tell you at all- that Nasi Kak Wok is basically just rice with curry and fried chicken… but as with all things gastronomic in the land of Malaysia, the joy is often in journey and the camaraderie of pairings as much as the food itself; so expect the real deal to be a thousand times more scintillating than its definition.

One Thing You Should Never Do In Kelantan Is: Disrespect the local customs and traditions.

Even amongst the Malaysian locals, Kelantan holds a solid reputation for being more religiously conservative than most, so be more mindful than you usually would elsewhere, especially with relation to dressing, alcohol consumption, and public displays of affection.

For most part, you’ll be given a wider berth just for being a conspicuous tourist; still, it’s always nice to just respect the rules of the land wherever you can help it.

One Thing I Did But Could Have Skipped Was: Take their pasar malams (night markets) seriously.

It has been a good two years, but every single night market here continues to channel the sparseness of a mid-pandemic commerce scene; one out of ten stalls reluctantly opens for business amidst a lifeless setting that can’t quite decide if it wants to be in operation or not.

One Thing I Skipped But Wish I Did Was: Ride the Jungle Railway – which, as with most train journeys, is an experience all on its own.

Arguably the most immersive leg of this entire train journey (which traverses all the way down south into Singapore) is the Tumpat-Gua Musang section bordered within Kelantan, where you will be taken through dense jungles, past remote villages and rice paddies and meandering rivers – all to the rhythmic clickety-clack of a very old, atmospheric (but still properly functional) locomotive.

The Best Photos Opportunities Can Be Found: Everywhere and nowhere at the same time. This is a landscape devoid of any discernible cookie-cutter ‘Instagram-worthy’ shots; but if you’re oriented towards collecting scenes and conversations; capturing spontaneous and emotional moments- or perhaps, seeing a landscpae in its rawest, most authentic form; then there are few places in Malaysia more recommended than Kelantan.

For A Glimpse of Daily Life, I Recommend: Waking up early for a trip to the Siti Khadijah Market, which is more than just a wet market; it’s a way of life. If you’re looking for a window into an energy that is local and authentic and very much alive, then the scene here will be hard to beat. I spent way more time here than any tourist visiting a wet market should.

I’m Not A Hipster, But: Even I know this isn’t the place you head to suss out the indie movement. Tradition trumps trends here in Kelantan; for a classic dose of hipster, you’ll have better luck heading left to Perak, or even down south to Pahang.

Stretch That $10 In My Pocket: Eat out at street stalls and restorans. Take public transport (if you even need to at all). Explore old shophouses and street art. Visit local markets and and make a list of free places of attraction (there are many), then pick a low-cost one to indulge in. Kelantan is notoriously easy on the pocket, and $10 can go a long way here.

For A More Bucolic Setting: Head to the outskirts of Kota Bahru. Some of the most beguiling elements in Kelantan are hidden out of view from the capital – there are limestone caves, beaches, kampongs, and even a variety of state parks to fill your itinerary; just keep your research off the beaten path and you will land on something.

Personally, I headed down South to Gunung Stong State Park, which houses Jelawang Waterfall, believed to be the tallest waterfall of Southeast Asia. Staying a night in this town can make you feel like you’re all but cut off from the world – and while it was awkward living it; in retrospect, it has turned out to be one of my most core travel memories from this year.

An Offbeat Thing I Did That I Liked Was: The WWII Museum, located inside the former Mercantile Bank branch from way back in 1922. I wouldn’t recommend this to anyone unless you’re a war/history/war history buff because it is quite a static exhibition- but if this is within the realm of your interest, then I’d grade it a must-visit because it’s highly informative (for instance, it totally escaped my knowledge for 36 years that Kelantan (together with Kedah, Perlis, Kelantan, and Terengganu) was considered a part of Thailand during the World War II years); plus it is filled with lots of awesome “antiques”* and relics from the past, including old cameras, super ancient typewriters, opium instruments, radiogrammes, ship lamps, rifles, ornamented furniture and fixtures, and so. many. more.

*I have no idea why I put ‘antiques’ in quotations. These pieces are authentically sourced from history and I have no reason to believe that they’re not.

The Dumbest Myth I’ve Ever Heard About Kelantan Is: That it is an austere unpeopled place strongly shaped by Islamic fundamentalism. People warned me of a thousand things and then some as I was headed there (I am notorious for going everywhere in a tee and shorts). Yet, not a single local’s glance made me feel uncomfortable nor judged while I was there. Contrarily, I experienced warmth and hospitality; and even if it was because I stuck out like a sore thumb, then all the better, because it means that any average traveller would have nothing to worry about either.

I Enjoyed This A Little More Than I Should (Guilty Pleasure): Aeon Mall – and I’m not even ashamed of it.

Enjoy Kelantan. I know I did.

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