[Post-Edit Note: All pictures and written content in this post was originally created in 2018, unless otherwise credited.]

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Till recent years, Sri Lanka could almost be considered a hideaway of sorts. After all, this once-troubled tropical paradise has had its fair share of ethnic unrest – and while the country still continues to face challenges integrating its Tamil minority into the nation; it has, undoubtedly, scored a string of wins over the past few years in working towards a lasting peace. The two-fold increase in tourism between 2012 and 2017 is standing testament to this; that at long last, a promise for better days has indeed unravelled new life in this pearl of the Indian Ocean.

Today, whether you’re trying to traipse close to an ancient civilisation; drench yourself in culture; venture into the bucolic corners of hilly tea estates, or simply retreat to an idyllic coastal hiatus to soothe your stressed-out city soul, it’s all to be found here. This country of wonderful contrasts is so compact and diverse it is entirely possible to stay a short while and achieve very much – after all travelling times are short, the scenery magnificent, and the food a delight; making it one of those places that fuel the cliche saying that – what is it again? – ‘It is the journey, and not the destination, that matters’.

In Sri Lanka, it is, truly, the journey – on top of the destination- that matters. Here are my top 9 favourite moments. ❤️

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1. A Chance Meeting With Colombo’s Red Mosque (Masjid Jami Ul-Afar)

It isn’t impossible to imagine yourself stepping out of a tuk-tuk and straight into a Wes Anderson film scene when you first lay eyes on this startling beauty.

Built more than 100 years ago in 1908, Masjid Jami Ul-alfar encapsulates more poignant whimsy than the Grand Budapest and Darjeeling Express combined, boasting a bevy of distinct red-and-white patterns swirling, spiraling, circling, and zigzagging its lines across every pillar, every wall, and every dome of its structure.

Magnificent as it may be in form, what made this the most amazing curiosity was its location; which, from pictures, gives the impression of an atmosphere bohemian and almost mysterious in spirit – but in reality, was somewhat sandwiched unceremoniously between a row of plain non-descript buildings, lined with narrow, buzzy sidestreets teeming with locals going about their day completely unaffected by this immense grandeur rising above them all. This, to me, only made it all the more compelling.

Don’t worry if you’re trying to track this discovery down, the Red Mosque is located right smack in the middle of Second Cross Street that’s in the hectic Pettah Market district, and is extremely easy to find even when you’re not looking. Don’t forget to traipse the madness of Pettah’s open air market while you’re there – it’s possibly the best place to head to in Colombo to get initiated into the local Sri Lankan hustle and bustle.

2. Savouring the Sunkissed Life In Unawatuna

The less chaotic and easier-to-navigate Unawatuna is a tangerine dream for the senses, especially if you’re coming in from Colombo. Everyone will tell you that it’s 2 hours by car, but even Google Maps don’t quite comprehend the whirl that is Colombo’s streets – because I got there in 4 hours.

Then again, when you get to a place like Unawatuna, every second of the wait is worth the while.

This. This was the rugged, mystifying stretch of coastline I’d not even dared to hope for, but was indeed, subconsciously still praying to stumble upon in Sri Lanka, somewhere in the corners of my heart. The kind of salty-hair-and-sunkissed-faces spirit that transcends the seascape and traverses its way into the nooks and crannies of every inch of dry land it touches.

How could it be, that so many other more lauded beaches and coastal towns have failed me and yet, Unawatuna managed to sweep me off my feet so completely? I mean, sure, it would never win first prize in a competition for ultra glitzy resorts and glossy beaches, but thanks to its pretty coastal town vibes, it’s a sure-fire bet if you’re looking for a little remoteness drenched in maximum tropical charm.

I truly enjoyed every second that I was in Unawatuna.

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3. My Accomodation Crush of the Decade: Sergeant’s House

I’ve always found that pairing a destination with wonderful accommodation makes the perfect formula for a holiday that little can ruin. It’s not about booking the most expensive resort or talked about place – it’s about finding a splendid little abode that appeals to you personally and has all the makings to fuel you through the day; driving you to get out there do the craziest, most intrepid things only because you know the comfort that awaits you when you get back. I know this doesn’t necessarily apply to everyone, but I’m pretty sure it applies to at least some  – and for those, you’ll probably love Sergeant’s House as much as I did.

There’s so much to swoon over at this curious boutique villa that’s perfectly situated from right across the beach at Unawatuna. The staggering façade comes courtesy of its historic colonial architecture that traces all the way back to the 1800s; and its interiors characterized by a disarming confluence of rattan accents, antique decor, and traditional furniture that sets the tone of a perfect coastal vibe.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t really that good at capturing the essence of Sergeant’s House in pictures – but alot of people on the internet are, so here’s a little nicked medley of the place.

Lest you think it’s all face and no substance, you’ll be chuffed to learn that the folks at Sergeants’ House also offers exemplary service by any standards, and were very warm, accommodating and easy going. There was also something comfortingly communal about the fact that the room doors don’t lock (the family staying right across me literally left the doors wide open the entire day); and there was not a second throughout my stay that I got worried or paranoid that my things would get stolen, by staff or the other occupants. And that says ALOT because I am generally a very distrusting person  – especially when I am travelling. Something about the place works on a very unspoken level of intrinsic trust, and you get cloaked with the same kind understanding the instant you walk through its tall heavy gates, like magic.

Unawatuna was already spectacular in my eyes with nothing else considered, but this, in my opinion, perfected Unawatuna for me.

4. Furry Friends In Happy Places

I believe that, more often than not, it is pure accidental discoveries that make the best experiences when you travel. Whether or not you’re an itinerary kind of person, it’s always the little unexpected bits and bobs along the way that help set your senses alight. Things like back streets, and sunsets, and food you never knew existed, and smells, and sometimes, even spontaneous companions along the way.

Dogs have always been such a wonderful element of my travels; from Bhutan to Indonesia to Uganda, these furry things add such a vibrance to my days it can singlehandedly alter my impression of a town and what I remember of it after a long time has passed and those memories get foggy.

Here, the canine landscape is very alive, littered with dogs that are, each, as friendly as the one before. There are more of them in the coastal areas than anywhere else (something I find to be common of any country, so does this mean that dogs, too, favour the idyllic beachside life? ); and they come up to you and stay close to you; and for that day, or hour, or however long they choose to stick around, prove such a cosy retreat from the whirling kaleidoscope of your surroundings.

Don’t worry if you fear dogs though, I find that they often know how to take a hint and will keep their distance if they know they’re not welcome.

5. The Secret Hippie Playground At Doctor’s House, Mirissa

To follow up on the concept of spontaenity, this was another chance discovery I stumbled upon in Mirrisa when I was dropped off on the wrong side of a really long stretch of beach at Madiha.

The Doctor’s House is essentially a food+accomodation experience held in a 200-year-old former Dutch and Ayurvedic hospital, but I suppose hosts events from time to time as it was a thriving hippie flea market scene that caught my eye in the first place when I passed it by. The compounds sparkles in contrast to its quiet, remote surroundings so it wasn’t that difficult to notice, but it fills  you with such a buzz – even standing on the outside – that you can’t help but want to step inside and poke around for an hour or two.

The Doctor’s House, to me, is definitely the beating heart of its surfer village neighbourhood. With its palm-fringed beaches, penchant for alcohol, and laidback allure, there is no wonder why it has become such a haven for hippies, nestling itself into the hearts of locals and travellers alike no matter where they’re from.

6. Being Blanketed with the Most Extraordinary Sunsets

Unlike many other destinations that require you to climb hills and hike trails just for an undisturbed view of a sunset, Sri Lanka practically envelopes you with the most smoldering sunsets at the end of every day – even with no effort on your part. Every place is the perfect place to witness this dazzling evening display of fire hearths and tangerines, where the orange gold stretches far and wide and slowly morphs into a velvety night.

I have never seen sunsets like the one I saw in Sri Lanka.

7. Exploreing the Hilly Interiors of Ella

It took me forever and a day to decide between Ella and the more popular Nuwara Eliya. Both regions are so similar in essence that you will find countless of ‘Ella vs Nuwara Eliya‘ forums and travel articles online; simply because, just like me, many people out there can’t make up their minds between these fraternal twin sisters either. Some even urge travellers to have a bit of a taste of both – an ideal I would definitely have pursued had I the luxury of time on my hands.

Unfortunately, I didn’t; and so Ella it was, simply because it felt like the quieter, more understated one (read: less people traffic).

And I was not disappointed.

I took a bus to bridge my distance between Mirrisa and Ella, and upon reaching, hired a tuk-tuk to take me up to the hills. Those small automobiles are simply not made to take on that kind of inclination – and the tuk-tuk drivers know it, because they charge you a premium to be taken up and they won’t budge. And even then, I wouldn’t have traded Ella for any other place, because, good God.

In all its humility, Ella, this picturesque grassy hillside, is Sri Lanka on its grandest scale. Blanketed with rugged hills and soft peaks, the interiors is laced with well-trodden paths and villages blanketed with a spectacular bucolic vibe that it immediately overwhelms with the same powerful emotion you get when you chance upon a friend you haven’t seen in a long time. Like a reprise of Lukla and all that laid above, this was the closest I have been to the mountains since Nepal in 2013. And I loved it and I loved it so much. I never realized how much I missed the breathtaking views, the cool crisp air, the sleepy town fervor… and it was there I learned what made the mountains so different from any other landscape, the one feeling that people feel when they’re up there that they don’t quite down below.

Hope.

8. Venturing Back to the Colonial Years at the Nine Arch Bridge

The lure of a colonial landscape (including those endless foothills of tea plantations and the like) is the very quintessence of Ella; and here, the Nine Arch Bridge is unequalled. With clean lines and the classic colonial devotion to symmetry, this impressive structure was crafted entirely out of brick, rock and cement – without a single piece of steel – and has been standing around since 1921. Even comes with an interesting backstory too.

A project initiated by the British, the Nine Arch Bridge was almost abandoned midway after being deemed impossible to build due to its marshy grounds which prevented firm anchoring from being put in place. A local, Appuhami – who had been working on the project – persuaded the British to allow him to take over the project; and his methods of construction was so intuitive and cost-effective that he finished the entire structure – which was intended to continue for many years – within a single year, at a fraction of the original cost planned. Naturally the British officials were flabbergasted and, of course, refused to believe its structural integrity; but Appuhami swore to the bridge’s solidity by lying under the bridge when the railway line was used for the first time; and thankfully, got paid the full cost savings from the drastically shorter building time.

I had the wonderful fortune of picking a really cute B&B called Ella Heritage to hole up in while I was in Ella, and the staff was so warm and homely that one of them actually offered to take me through the jungle for a 20-min shortcut trek to the Bridge (the usual walk from the main town will take  you 45 minutes). And he stuck around for the next 2 hours or so until the train passed because apparently, one of the iconic photo shots of the Nine Arch Bridge is one with the train passing through. We timed it such that we wouldn’t have to wait around too long, but as with most things in Sri Lanka, delays come as they will, and it was not until 1.5 hours later than the original timing that the train finally made its grand appearance.

Sadly, I am going to be utterly useless in providing directions to this shortcut (seeing as how the entire jungle just looked the same to me [I’ve always wondered how rangers made their way around jungles]). There is the option of taking a tuk-tuk if you’re not up for a 45-minute walk; otherwise, there is an even better option of just staying at Ella Heritage 😂 (I booked mine on Agoda).

9. The Train Ride from Ella to Kandy

Was actually the deal clincher when I was deciding between Ella and Nuwara Eliya. The Ella-Kandy route has been lauded the world over as one of the most picturesque train rides in the world, and boy does it live up to those lofty expectations and then some.

A visual feast of colourful villages; endless swathes of forests, hills, and valleys; and an ever-changing view of a postcard-worthy remoteness. It’s six full hours of soaking up this scenic grandeur and even then, you’re left wanting more.

Just a couple of ticketing tips, don’t bother heading to the station a day or two earlier to purchase your ticket – if you’ve not done it online or through an agency, the only other way you can do it is literally at the counter, on the day itself. There is no reserved seating and the carriages are PACKED to the brim. but the view definitely calms you down a little, so hold on to that inner peace. Somewhere after the third hour or so, the situation spaces out a little better, and if you’re lucky,  you might even snag yourself a seat.

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Enjoy Sri Lanka.

I know I did.