With Perak, what begins as a far from picturesque introduction to the charms of Malaysia, soon morphs into a reassuring patchwork of towering bluffs coated in trees and rocks, resolutely timeworn architecture, a burgeoning hipster scene, and a time-honoured food culture – one that transcends caste and creed and, today, stands as somewhat of a totem of unity for the state locals.

In my newfound pursuit (which some may prefer to term an obssessive bid) to cover Malaysia in its full glory across all thirteen states, I found myself in Perak once more in 2019, 7 years after my first visit back in 2012. So much has changed in those years – and yet, so much remains the same. The steady hum of activity is still slow, restful, and makes room for the mind to wander; and yet now, a visibly thriving creative hub has emerged, brimming with artisan shops, cafes, bars, and services in both its Old and New Town districts. Not only that, I discovered to my delight that Perak is a state of microcities – something that I’d missed out on before – and each of these microcities, from Taiping to Kuala Kangsar to Pangkor Island and more, comes with its own distinctive mood and vibe; forming an amalgamation of customs and traditions that will satiate any xenophile’s appetite for contrasting cultures.

Thankfully, unlike Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Malacca, Perak isn’t quite the heavyweight in the scene of Malaysia tourism just yet; right now, tourists don’t throng the streets and it is a wildcard destination where only travellers-in-the-know (including locals) will come to shake off the madness of urban touristic life. But it is a state that is gentrifying at a dizzying speed; and give it enough time, it will soon join the ranks of its sister cities.

If you wish to sidestep the crowds, the time to go is now. Perak is the current antidote to traditional Malaysia tick lists, a place without pretence; and when you’re here, no one really cares what you’ve done or seen – as long as you do their food right.

3 Apps That Will Make Your Life Easier Here: Grab (basically South-east Asia’s Uber & UberEats); Waze (like Google Maps, except alot more accurate and helpful as far as Malaysia is concerned); and CurrenSeek, an app that helps you locate money changers near you and compare rates for the best currency exchange deals.

Here, Most People Flock Straight To: Ipoh, the capital city of the state.

My First Impression of Perak In Five Words: Rustic With A Modern Irreverence.

An Ipoh Itinerary In Five Words: Heritage Trails, Cave Temples, and F-O-O-D.

I Woke Up With: Weil Hotel, Ipoh. It ticks all the boxes for comfortable travel while in Ipoh. It’s centrally located, the rooms are sizeable and cosy, the bathrooms a delight; and it’s right next to a well-tenanted shopping mall, which is perfect for a spontaneous food grab if you’re not in the mood for a hunt.

The First Thing I Did After Checking In Was: Eat – is there anything else more pressing on the schedule when in Ipoh? 😅 I popped in to the mall next to Weil, headed straight for a non-descript eating joint with a hole-in-the-wall ambience, and had what still feels like the best Assam Laksa I have ever had.

The Best Way to Move Around In Ipoh Is By: A rented bicycle if you’re in the mood for sport, or Grab (I almost always pick Grab over traditional cabs because the rates are fixed and you know how much you’re paying before you book and you basically avoid ALOT of fare miscommunication). There isn’t a city train system but there are buses if you’re game to figure out the routes. Alternatively, Ipoh also has its own rendition of a Hop-On Hop-Off (HoHo) Bus, which operates on weekends only.

On Your First Day Here (In Ipoh), Seeing This Is A Must: Old Town & New Town, presuming you still have a good part of the day left. This is where history and the hip-pocket meet; and it is quite the cavernous buzzy space that takes you through heritage trails and historical lanes and art mural alleys, with plenty of food picks that range from seasoned traditions to artisanal specialties and everything else in between.

If I Can Only Eat One Thing, It’s: Beansprout Chicken Rice, in Ipoh. Warning: Asking where you can find the best Beansprout Chicken Rice is a discussion that may lead to casualties; so just pick a street Restoran with a healthy number of patrons and dig in – with Ipoh food, good is good enough.

For A True Taste of Local Food, Also Try: Tau Huey (beancurd pudding) – all tourists flock to a no-frills joint called Funny Mountain, but locals will have their own personal favourites; Chee Cheong Fun – a simple Cantonese rice noodle roll dish that, when traditionally prepared, is drenched in sticky sauce and topped with sesame seeds. In Singapore, this sauce is sweet. In Ipoh, it is savoury; Kai See Hor Fun – which, in Singapore, we call Ipoh Hor Fun. The difference is in the broth, which is brewed with chicken bones and shrimp shells, as well as its garnish of shredded chicken, which replaces the usual bite-sized chicken pieces; Curry Laksa, and a good ol’ cuppa Ipoh White Coffee.

This list will vary from one city to the next even within the parameters of Perak though; so if you’re venturing out oh Ipoh, be sure to arrive armed with all the information you need so you don’t miss a beat.

The Ipoh Locals Don’t Want You to Know About: Sun Kim Aik, a pioneer dim sum restaurant in Ipoh, tucked safely away from the crowds and is relatively tourist-free. It opens as early as 5 in the morning with a luscious menu, elevated to the nth degree with a superb quality and craftsmanship.

One Thing You Should Never Do In Perak Is: Turn it into a day trip. Life is slow here, but to compact it into a less-than-24-hour experience is to do it injustice. Ipoh might be the beating heart of the state, but there are still a couple more cities worth paying a visit if you’ve got the time to spare.

One Thing I Did But Could Have Skipped Was: the Birch Memorial Clock Tower in Ipoh. It is an extremely monumental landmark in Perak’s history and holds great controversy and significance… but it is a clock tower. Include this only if you’re intentional about seeking insight into Perak’s colonial history. Otherwise… it’s literally just a clock tower.

One Thing I Skipped But Wish I Did Was: Detour to Kuala Kangsar, a city about an hour out from Ipoh. I would definitely return for this, God willing.

The Best Photos Opportunities Can Be Found: Everywhere! Perak is so, so, photogenic; you just need to know how to look. Its scene is a glorious jumble of rustic shophouses, colonial-era architecture, limestone bluffs, and some pretty majestic palaces and mosques beyond its population centre; and I could not get enough. A huge part of Ipoh is hipster capital, and you’ll get plenty of opoortunities at Old and New Town. Also do not miss Kellie’s Castle, an unfinished mansion located at Batu Gajah, just 30 minutes out of Ipoh. It has quite the story to tell.

For A Glimpse of Daily Life, I Recommend: Heading out to Taiping – or even Kuala Kangsar, the well-preserved Royal Town of Perak filled with plenty of historical palaces and dome mosques, and which still flourishes with strong traditional culture and arts to this day. Don’t expect a charged itinerary though; these are experiential places that are more for the feel than the dos and sees, and they require you to be fully present in the moment to appreciate its worth.

I’m Not A Hipster, But: Stop by Kong Heng Square. Its location’s century-old history belie the hipster whimsy that nestles within, and the area presents itself like a secret to those who dare venture forth. When here, do not miss Book Xcess, an absolutely charming bookshop built within an abandoned bank vault.

Stretch That $10 In My Pocket: Camp Out for Ipoh’s Memory Lane Flea Market that happens every Sunday. Stroll the stalls for a treasured find – or continue your food adventures and choose from a veritable feast of street grub that won’t disappoint.

For A More Bucolic Setting: Escape to Pangkor Island. You can get here by a short 45min ferry ride, from a jetty which is about an hour and a half away from Ipoh. The final destination though, I heard, is close to heaven.

The Worst Myth I’ve Ever Heard About Perak Is: That there is nothing to do here. Perak may be more crumbly than cosmopolitan; but there is magic in its soil, and it will seduce you effortlessly with its distinctively diverse dialect, culture, and food. Its urban collage is a seamless blend of two worlds in one; and with it, comes an enduring aura of ramshackle chic with unparalleled vibrancy. If you look at Perak right, there is no way in the world you could ever stop and think to yourself, there is nothing to do here.

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Enjoy Perak. I know I did.