The juxtaposition between our outside lives and these snow-covered grounds could not be more pronounced.

Here, in the northernmost reaches of our Earth bestowed with an uncommon climate and an even more rarefied ecosystem, lies a tapestry of pastures so vast and a world of traditions so preserved that it has become more than just a geographic indication on the world map – it is an entire universe all of its own.

This is Kiruna, a sliver of the greater Arctic North that only seven countries in the world lay claim to- and it is the land of the Sámi people, the indigenous inhabitants of the untamed Far North.

While us city dwellers shiver in the biting cold, the Sámi truly understand the language carried in the Arctic breeze; withstanding the harshness of its cold while adapting to the uncertainty of its natural and political present. And as we live our lives chasing worldly dreams and material things, the Sámi thrive in the vast, open wilderness of the Lapland; steadfast in their duty to safeguard their ancestral heritage against changes of the future.

More than just land, Kiruna is a living testament to the remarkable resilience of an entire, thousand-year-old community. Here in the Arctic North, the Sámis’ sense of place in society is entirely defined by their ancestry – and their purpose, inextricably intertwined with the reindeer herds that roam their lands.

I find husband & wife team, Fredrik & Beatrice (whom themselves, are direct descendants of the very first Sámi settlers in Kiruna), 1.5 hours in a small, quiet town out of Kiruna. They are genuine in a way that only people who are truly comfortable in their own skin are – Fredrik, a stocky man with calloused hands and a deep laugh; and Beatrice, his calmer half, gentle but with a spirited twinkle in her eyes. From the get-go, I knew this was going to be a far more immersive experience than I’d imagined.

And I was right. As pleasantries are exchanged and introductions made, it strikes me that this isn’t just some run-of-the-mill tourist attraction or even your typical, contrived ‘living museum’.

This, is real life.

WHO ARE THE SAMI PEOPLE

To me, Nomadic life evokes escapism, adventure, unfettered freedom and a degree of primal minimalism and self-sufficience. But the Sámi people proved to be more than my romanticized ideals.

Also known as the indigenous lands of the North, the Sápmi region stretches across the northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia’s Kola Peninsula – all of which coalesce to form the world’s coldest frontier known as the Arctic Circle. The People- known as the Sámi- have lived these lands for thousands of years; braving relentless temperatures and cultivating a distinct cultural identity, language, and history over time. It is one that differs markedly from the populations that settled in after them; and even as the world’s ancestral origins gradually dissipated with time and gave way to a more modern history, the Sámi fastidiously held on to their roots, consciously choosing to honour their unyielding connection to their ancient beginnings and all elements of their land.

Till today, the livelihood of the Sámi people remains highly communal in nature; their means of sustenance still primarily centred on reindeer herding, fishing, hunting, and gathering. The only difference, perhaps, is that they now no longer move around as nomadically as their ancestors once did.

REINDEER HERDING

The reindeer, in particular, remain central to the existence of the Sámi people. From cradle to grave, these gentle animals serve a multitude of purposes for their human caretakers, from trusted companions that transport and traverse; to providers of milk, meat, hides and even instruments that not only sustain – but protect – the Sámi people amidst the harsh Arctic climate.

More than anything that I loved about this experience, it was the opportunity to witness the harmonious coexistence that the Sámi people share with the reindeer and their unique climate; how every facet of their subsistence revolved around the natual rhythm of these animals. The reindeer, with its remarkable seasonal migrations that historically could navigate distances more than 100 miles wide, continue to shape the way of life for both the reindeer and the Sámi community in Kiruna. Till today, the Sámi herders play a vital role in the migration process – albeit, in lieu of walking them across borders as their ancestors once did; today, the herds undertake shorter migration patterns, settling for more localized movements that prioritize forage availability, climate conditions, infrastructure resources, and geopolitical territories.

Apart from that, little else has changed; and wherever the reindeer go, the Sámi people go. And they continue to closely monitor the herds as generations before them once did, providing the same meticulous level of care, guidance, protection, and support as it always was.

And there is something truly, utterly beautiful about that.

EXPERIENCING A TASTE OF TRADITIONAL SAMI CULTURE

It gets cold fast in Kiruna. It is January, the temperature this morning is -6° C – which, I’m being told, is a Kiruna summer.

Before long, we retreat to the lavvu – a traditional Sámi dwelling tent- where conversations wait to be shared around a cozy, crackling fire. Fredrik, a born narrator, weaves in and out of stories as he brews coffee over the open fire. He talkes about the changing climate and environmental shifts and how it is already directly impacting the way that they – and the reindeer- live. -6° C, he reiterates, is not winter weather. Not when past years have seen lows like -50° C. When snow cover and vegetation distribution becomes unpredictable, the availability of suitable grazing grounds follow suit; and reduced access to nutritious forage can lead to malnutrition and overall herd health deterioration.

Both Fredrik & Beatrice worry about the future as they recall their People’s past; and as the stories and coffee flow, we sample our first smoked reindeer pita – a constellation of pleasures like none other. At one point, a hushed tranquility settles naturally over the tent; the bustling chatter coordinating to give way to a tired, gratified silence. Most are of us are in one state of reverie or another, all generally transfixed by the sparking embers and flickering flames of a fire that centres us all.

At some point, Fredrik says, “When you have a fire, you don’t need television.”

And till this day, I cannot think of anything truer than that.

THE TOUR

On : Viator | Go to Lapland

I cannot recommend Fredrik and Beatrice enough. There is an ancient wisdom to the way they move and speak; and so, so generous and gracious in their invitation to partake in their centuries-old tradition of reindeer herding.

For daytrippers like ourselves, we will get the rare opporunity to be momentarily immersed in the ethereal stillness that is their everyday life. You will be surrounded by a pristine canvas of white, frost-kissed pine trees, and you will experience, firsthand, the symbiotic relationship between the reindeer & the Sámi people.

You will also get a chance to feed, a chance to mingle, and a chance to sled – and a chance too to, definitely, wildly entertain the idea of living the rest of your life like this.

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Enjoy reindeer herding in Kiruna.

I know I did.